This month we were featured in an article in San Francisco Magazine:” Saving Our Skin”, about the increasingly sophisticated natural skincare industry.  I was so pleased to be referred to as the “Alice Waters of skincare”.  I cannot think of a more flattering compliment.  Alice Waters’ has made a significant impact on the food industry with her commitment to using the finest and freshest ingredients. Given that we absorb at least 60% of what we put on our skin, we can look at topical applications (skin cream!) as being another form of food.  So, here are some simple skin food rules to follow when you are confronted with a dazzling array of products and wondering where to start.

Skin Food Rules

1. Here is the major rule from which all else follows. Look at the ingredients, not the claims. There’s very little that can’t be said about a product, but the ingredients are its fingerprint. Here are some things to watch for when you read an ingredients list.

2. If you have allergies: Fragrance aka “parfum” is the number one cause of allergic dermatitis. Be aware that “unscented” can be translated as “this product contains a masking fragrance.” Look for “fragrance-free,” particularly if you have sensitivities.

3. Shopping for an anti-aging product: Studies show that ascorbic acid is crucial for both repairing existing UV damage and building new collagen. Since Vitamin C oxidizes rapidly in liquid Vitamin C serums should be avoided. The color guide is, if it’s clear it’s okay, but when it starts turning yellow, orange or brown it’s time to throw it away!

4. To exfoliate or not to exfoliate: Abrasives can eliminate precancerous cells with regular use. The rule here is to use gentle scrubs, avoiding those that contain irregularly shaped kernels that may tear skin.

5. Glycolic vs lactic acid: lactic acid is less irritating to the skin than glycolic acid. It also has humectant properties and assists in skin lightening. If you like AHAs stick with lactic acid, and especially avoid “sunscreens” containing glycolic acid.

6. Chemical sunscreens vs physical sunblocks: about 15% of the population will break out from some ingredient in a chemical sunscreen. For a large number of reasons your safest choice in sunscreen ingredients is zinc oxide, preferably non-nanosized.

7. For skin lightening: avoid hydroquinone. Look for natural ingredients that help lighten skin gradually over time, such as: ascorbic acid, licorice root, paper mulberry, uva ursi, kojic acid.

8. For vegans: in case you were wondering, lactic acid is derived from a fermentation process using beet sugar and is vegan. However, there is an ingredient which shows up frequently in skin care products that you should be aware of –stearic acid. Used as an emulsifier, its source can be either animal or vegetable.

9. To alleviate dry skin: Most skin creams are made up of water and wax, with a little oil thrown in. Water and waxes can be more drying than emollient, since the inappropriately named “cream” sits on the surface of the skin. Look for hydrators that contain more oil than water or wax, since what the skin needs in order to protect itself, heals itself and retain moisture, is oil.

10. For acne: every skin needs oil. If you are using treatments which dry out your skin rebalance with an oil blend at night. Some good oils for acne-prone skin: pumpkin seed oil (high in zinc), sea buckthorn and red raspberry oil (anti-microbial).